Due to the extreme difficulty with color-matching, and the reproduction of colors on screen (or paper), any information given should be treated as guidance only. In particular, the effects of ageing will differ from vehicle to vehicle and may result in colors appearing very different from how they once looked.
Where colors are given, please remember that the luminance is most prone to error during matching (especially with specular surfaces).
The 1946-1947 color schemes were :
For the Barker-bodied LD10, the paint was supplied by P&J (believed to be Pinchin & Johnson, acquired by Courtaulds in 1960).
The engine block (and both covers), water pump and the air silencer were originally painted a gray/green color, somewhat similar to #78866B Camouflage green, although perhaps with a slightly more olive hue, as shown with this desaturated shade of #818F64 Olive Drab.
Leyland produced a gray/blue engine paint in the 1960's which may still be available and is a close enough match for many owners. A superb example can be seen
on the photos page. Without an original sample to hand for color-matching, the best match would seem to be #96B4B4 (a desaturated shade of cyan), noting that the luminance is most likely to be incorrect.
The fan blade, dynamo and its mounting bracket were painted black, as were the steering and selector columns, the umbrella handle of the handbrake (not the white Bakelite insert) and the selector quadrant including the chrome plate (but not the numbers, which were left as chrome).
The advance unit on the distributor has also been observed to have been painted black on several vehicles.
The oil filter and its bowl were painted a bronze colour (as supplied by Tecalemit). A few appear to have been painted black.
The sump, petrol pump, carburettor, inlet and exhaust manifolds were not painted, nor were machined surfaces that had mating parts attached.
The interior of the instrument panel was painted a cream color, for which the Rover color 'Champagne Beige' is an almost perfect match.
The later Barker-bodied cars were painted with a thin red or gold coach line (at waist height) along the length of the car.
Samples of blue bodywork paint suggest the color was #0A0A32 commonly referred to as 'Midnight Blue'.
The Briggs dashboard, and instrument panel for all LD10's, was painted with a faux walnut effect. This wood grain effect can be achieved with 'scumble' - an opaque paint over a lighter colored base coat which is 'combed' to produce the faux grain.
A suggested method is to apply J.R.Ratcliffe's Mid-Venetian Red (#67743) undercoat and, when dry, overpaint with J.R.Ratcliffe's Walnut (#2775) oil scumble. While this top coat is still wet, draw a clean, dry brush horizontally across the scumble to create a grain structure. Once dried, a further coat of varnish is recommended to protect the finish.
A far simpler, modern solution is to print the woodgrain with a color laserprinter onto transfer paper, affix to the metalwork and apply a protective varnish topcoat.
When comparing an original example, do remember that paint ages and changes color - it is likely that the original finish would have matched the Barker wooden dashboard more closely.
For red interiors, the leather varies from #661C20 (a desaturated shade of red) to #4D1C1C. The darker shades representing the creases, which will naturally accumulate dirt. This maroon/burgundy color is most closely matched to #661313 Falu red, though is unlikely to be related to it.
The leatherette varies from #742424 (a desaturated shade of red) to #561D1D. This is an extremely close match to the leather, being just a fraction lighter on average.
The moquette matches #78262C (a desaturated shade of red) which again, is a very close match with both the leather and leatherette. It tends to be more prone to variation than the leather or leatherette, probably due to the effects of sunlight and the accumulation of dirt.
For green interiors, the leather varies from #2A2E2A (a desaturated shade of green) to #1C221C. The darker shades representing the creases, which will naturally accumulate dirt. This dark green color is too difficult to match accurately but has variously been described as a British racing green or Hunter green (both of which are 'period').
The leatherette varies from #242C24 (a desaturated shade of green) to #162016. This is an extremely close match to the leather, being just a fraction darker on average.
For blue interiors, the leather is most closely matched to #002366 Royal blue, which is a traditional color.
For brown interiors, insufficient information is currently available, other than to assert that the hue most probably lies between 15° and 20°.
The official Daimler chroming specification was:
"A minimum of 22 microns of nickel must be laid down on the brass, finished with nickel sealer then chrome plated for 7.1/2 minutes"
Note that it is usual when plating steel to first plate with copper.
The most important part of plating is not to apply the chromium too thick (because it is brittle and will crack). Consider the chrome as a form of varnish - it protects and provides a gloss finish, but should not obscure the underlying surface.
The leather was originally supplied by Connelly Brothers of London.
The edges of all wooden floorboard panels were lined with approx. 1" wide strips of black felt, folded partly under the woodwork and glued in place. The felt edges were (roughly) flush with the visible surface of the woodwork.
Immediately below the windscreen is a 42" length of 0.175" diameter, leatherette wrapped, hollow bead. The 1.3/4" width strip of leatherette is cut around the two ventilation slots and tacked in place - over the screws which secure the windscreen. It is probable that the beading is either 1/8" (0.125) or 3/16" (0.1875), since the measured values were taken from a perished example.
See this page for details of replacing the ash framework under the windscreen.
To remove the rear arm rests, there are two, round headed wood screws underneath each of the two rear wheel arches. The screws are about 6.1/2" apart, vertically one above the other. Remove these two screws and the arm rest can be pushed forward and downward to release a screw head from the larger part of a keyhole slot in a plate that is attached to the inside of the upper part of the armrest. The rest will then lift off.
If the front seats are to be re-upholstered, first carefully remove the thin, spring metal trim strip from all around the back of the chairs. This part is not replaceable and should be preserved at all costs.
An upholsterer will likely charge considerably for their time in removing such a delicate item (the spring usually rusts and is prone to breaking if not removed very slowly and carefully) and will not accept responsibility if it breaks.
Pillar trim consists of 1/4" 5-ply, wrapped in headlining material (top half) and leatherette (bottom half) and trimmed with colored 'furflex'. The 'furflex' sits behind the ply and is tacked to the ply from behind.
The parcel shelf of both the Briggs cars and the Barker cars is thin plywood, covered in headlining material.
Wafer-thin steel strips, wrapped in black velvet, were used between the glass and bodywork on door windows. The outer strip is inserted between the door and the chrome framework (which therefore requires removal of the frame to replace), the inner strip is attached to the reverse side of the wooden capping piece (and is cut to fit the brackets).
Regarding the rear arm rests - the whole recess, in which the armrest sits, is a separate pressing from the body and is held in place with four screws. The upholstered part of the armrest itself, was fitted to the recess, before the recess was fitted into the car body.
The parcel shelf of both the Briggs cars and the Barker cars is thin plywood, covered in headlining material.
See this page for further details.