Cooling system capacity is 2 gallons.
Lower hose (2 of) was made by John Bull, part #220.
To be written...
The lower, steel 'elbow' pipe is prone to rusting.
Radiator drain tap contains a spring and split pin, both prone to rusting, which may lead to the tap leaking or not turning.
Two rubber-topped bonnet stops mounted to top-left and right of radiator cradle often lose their rubber tops and may need replacing. The central rubber grommet for the bonnet locator may also be perished or missing.
Radiator cradle is prone to impact damage (bending of extended arms) and rusting to lower section (under radiator) especially leading to loss of one or more radiator grille mounting brackets. It may be possible to straighten arms by applying force, using an anvil to hold the correct shape.
If the radiator locator does not locate centrally with the hole at top of radiator grille, the bonnet may not be correctly positioned - loosen securing brackets and adjust accordingly.
To remove radiator grille (and attached small wing panels):
1) remove 3 bolts on underside of grille (2 outer ones also hold P-clips for wiring loom)
2) remove 2 bolts each side of grille, the first close to the bottom of the grille, the second approx. in line with the horizontal cross tie
3) detach from any other panels, ie. wing or side panels as necessary
4) remove 2 topmost bolts, being careful not to damage paintwork as grille drops
To remove radiator:
1) drain water (drain tap at bottom, N/S)
2) slacken jubilee clips on top and bottom hoses and remove the lower hose and/or 'elbow' pipe
3) disconnect hoses to heater (if fitted)
4) remove 2 radiator stay bolts (top) and the 3 bolts securing the grille assembly to the radiator
5) slacken 4 bolts (2 each side) near the top of the radiator which secure it to location channels
6) remove 2 bolts on underside of grille (the ones with the P-clips for wiring loom)
7) slide radiator out vertically
To remove water pump:
(the following notes are from memory and have not been verified)
1) remove top and bottom hoses, also the heater hoses (if fitted)
2) remove lowest four bolts in the circle around the pump
3) the weight of the pump will now cause it to detach from the cylinder head - if not, apply a light tap with a soft-faced mallet.
A radiator was found marked 'Coventry Radiator & Pressworks Ltd.' - this may be the original manufacturer, or a label added after a subsequent reconditioning of the radiator.
The top hose is interchangeable with the Morris Minor (sidevalve) engine (1949-1952 - the car without the water pump) top hose. The original was a specially made John Bull hose (part number RH145) with a single convolution to allow it to flex.
The top pipe of the radiator tends to stand forward, requiring a significant kink in the connecting pipe. It isn't difficult to weld a replacement right-angle pipe to the radiator that aligns better and puts less stress on the connecting pipe - if you can live with it not being 'original'.
Note that the inside edges of the radiator grille were originally painted black.
The original radiator drain tap consisted of a tapered valve with a lever, held by a spring and split-pin. Later replacements of a left-hand threaded, screw in valve with knurled wing nut are also suitable.
If the lower 'elbow' pipe has rusted or is missing, it may be possible to make a temporary replacement part from a MkII Consul bottom hose. This requires cutting to size and the insertion of a domestic copper water pipe in the rubber heater outlet and then attaching the heater hose to this. Two small jubilee clips are also required.
The 1952 Humber Sceptre apparently uses the same rubber/carbon seal for the water pump.
The John Bull lower hose (part #220) was also used on various Daimlers and Lanchesters from 1945 to 1951.
None yet.