Lucas Windtone WT29L and WT29L2 (12V, 102 Phons), part numbers #69002A and #69003A respectively. Also listed as Lucas part #69021A (low note, Briggs), #69022A (high note, Briggs), #69011F (low note, Barker) and #69012F (high note, Barker). Both horns are also listed as replaced by Lucas part #69504.
Under normal circumstances none should be necessary.
Dirty or pitted points may prevent horn from sounding.
2 bolts attach each horn to a bracket.
To remove the horn button and indicator assembly :
Removal and refitting of the stator tube is dead easy (when the body is off) details as follows:-
1). Colour code the wires which come out of the bottom of the steering column.
2). Unplug the bullet connectors, leaving the outer sleeves on the wiring harness and not on the steering column wires.
3). Put an oil catchment tray under the end of the steering box and undo the brass gland nut. Slide it down the wires and keep it safe.
4). Get a friend to rotate and pull the indicator switch / horn button assembly inwards towards the rear roof of the car.
Warn him or her to be gentle, as bakelite is very brittle and this component is quite rare because of bad handling.
You may need to GENTLY grip the outer curve of the olive at the bottom of the stator tube so that it slides through as your colleague twists, pulls and rotates.
If someone has over-tightened the olive in the past, you might struggle to get it off and may even have to cut it.
5). When the stator tube has been pulled through the olive, get your colleague to SLOWLY pull the switch assembly until the first bullet connector is about to go into the steering box.
6). Inside the car, undo the three countersunk slotted screws which hold the horn button / indicator switch assembly to the flat plate on the top of the stator tube.
7). Push the stator tube back into the column again and safely store the three screws by screwing them back into their original holes in the switch assembly.
8). Under the car, attach a wire to the longest of the stator wires (for pulling back later).
9). Carefully feed the bullets from the bullet connectors into the bottom end of the stator tube whilst your colleague GENTLY pulls the switch assembly and wires out of the top.
You will notice that each wire is thin and has been cut to a different length to allow all of the bullet connectors to go up the stator tube in different positions.
If someone has cut them all to the same length, or fitted thick wires, you will have to unsolder the bullet connectors and take them off again.
10). Once the original wires are out of the stator tube, disconnect your pull-wire and leave it in the stator tube (protruding at both ends).
11). Now for the difficult bit if the car body is still on the chassis. Pull the stator tube out of the column as far as you can, it will hit the headlining.
12). Gently cause the stator tube to curve, making sure that it does not buckle or crease. Bend the disk end down, holding the middle up so that you can get more space beyond the disc.
Make sure that you do not bend the tube where it comes out of the column. Get the whole tube to spring into a curve along its full length.
13). Once you have clearance beyond the disc end of the tube, pull the last few inches out of the steering column slowly into the cabin, preventing excess oil from soiling the interior. It may help to wrap the bullet connectors and tie them to prevent snagging.
For disassembly of this horn and indicator assembly
click here
and it will be free.
beware of oil leaking on the interior when
removing.
14). Put the olive into the brass gland nut and GENTLY screw it back onto the bottom of the steering box, to keep it safe.
When refitting, ensure the indicator switch is held in the desired position while tightening the retainer nut.
Note that removal of the chrome insert around the horn button gives access to nothing more than the contacts for the horn button.
When correctly adjusted each horn should draw 5.5A.
For a detailed breakdown of components and Lucas part numbers, see this link.