Details of front and rear window glass and mirrors.
Other than keeping clean and checking for damage, no maintenance is necessary.
Other than damage to the glass, the usual problem is failure of the rubber seals, leading to leaks and further interior damage.
On Barker cars, if the frame has warped slightly, windows may be difficult to remove (being a much tighter fit).
On Briggs cars, the front window may prove difficult to remove, as the screws seize into the mild steel corner brackets and may have to be drilled out. It is easy to make new (stainless steel) corner brackets afterwards, so there is no need to worry unduly about this.
For the Barker, the 4 machine screws are likely to seize or snap and would then need to be very carefully drilled out (the steel screws are considerably stronger than the aluminium bodywork).
Barker, Rear Window:
1) Remove headlined, rear window millboard (fixed by small nails at edges).
2) Unscrew 4 metal retaining plates and carefully push glass into car.
Barker, Front Window:
1) Remove (or carefully prise up) trim to left and right of window to reveal 4 machine screws (2 each side) through the body frame.
2) Remove dashboard capping piece and remove (or carefully prise up) leatherette bound piping to reveal 3 right-angled metal brackets (6 screws total) located center and to both sides.
3) A further 4 right-angled metal brackets will be found to the top of the window (8 screws total).
4) Remove all screws and carefully push entire window out of car (ie. complete with chrome trim).
To accurately determine the positions of screws under the trim of Barker cars, a small magnet is recommended. The trim near screws can usually be carefully prised to one side, sometimes requiring one or two tacks to be removed first.
It may be convenient to use black silicone sealant when refitting windows, to proof against future leaks. This will, however, make future removal of the window more difficult.
Since the glass on Barker cars is curved (except front window), it may prove difficult/expensive to replace - extra caution is advised when handling.
The glass in Briggs cars is all flat and easy to replace, but the edges of the sliding glass must be ground.
If opting to add wing mirrors to your vehicle (these were not supplied originally), note that circular mirrors are more appropriate to the period than rectangular mirrors.
All images are scanned from originals, wherever possible, at 100dpi (unless otherwise noted) and must be scaled when printed to preserve the original size (eg. scale up by 3 times for a 300dpi printer).
Note, however, that due to slight scaling inaccuracies during both the scanning and inevitably the printing, these images should be taken as an approximation for reference only.
In addition, drawings, measurements and notes of materials used are intended as a guide and aid to the restorer, and not necessarily a definitive, or even guaranteed correct, reference.
The profile of the rubber rear window seal as used on the Barker-bodied LD10.
The channel holds the glass, with the lip pointing outwards.
Note that the lip should have a more acute angle with the channel (the example shown has perished and would probably allow water to enter under the seal).
See this page for details of replacing the ash framework under the windscreen.