Multi-vane, open circuit type fluid flywheel using 5.1/2 pints of SAE 30 oil.
|
|
| The driving (left) and driven (right) members of the fluid flywheel. | Cross-section through a typical fluid flywheel. |
Normally the only attention needed is topping up every 3,000 miles.
1) Take up carpet and remove gearbox inspection cover - the filler plug can be reached
through a hole in the bell-housing.
2) Manually turn the engine until a filler plug is visible (there are two on opposite sides of the flywheel).
3) Carefully remove filler plug, using Blu-tack or similar inserted in a socket set to prevent the plug falling down into the bell-housing.
4) Add SAE 30 oil until it overflows.
If fitting a new oilseal, check the runner and bush are not excessively worn - if so, they will need to be repaired or replaced.
Photos provided by Tom Riddell
Leaking oil (from a small hole at the very bottom of the flywheel) caused by perished oilseal.
1) Remove both front seats, carpets, floorboards.
2) Remove front tunnel (multiple bolts and captive nuts) - this may require some 'persuasion'..
3) Unbolt propshaft flange at gearbox and rear axle (4 nuts & bolts both sides)
4) Push the propshaft back into the tunnel to allow clearance
5) Disconnect the ballstuds on the selector rod and gear change rod
6) Detach the earth strap and speedometer cable
7) Remove the starter motor bolts and push the starter motor forwards
8) Unbolt the ring of 12x screws from the bellhousing
9) Unscrew the rear (Metalastik) gearbox mounting from the gearbox (top 2 screws)
10) Loosen (or remove) the upper torque reaction buffer bracket
11) Jack up the rear of the engine to lift the gearbox clear of its mounting
12) Use a trolley jack to take the weight of the gearbox
13) Pull the gearbox slowly into the car until there is sufficient room to insert a hand behind the bellhousing -
the (splined) gearbox shaft will remain located in the flywheel
14) Pull, then lift the gearbox into the car (it will need to be rotated slightly to clear obstructions)
15) Drain the flywheel by removing the brass plug (some oil will remain)
16) Remove the ring of screws from the periphery of the flywheel (but not any circular headed ones)
17) Note the alignment mark at TDC across both halves (or paint your own line across both halves) to aid re-assembly
18) Separate halves by screwing 3 screws in at 120 degrees around the flywheel (into the holes which did not previously contain screws) (the remaining oil will fall out)
19) Remove circlip from the center of the removed half and push out the oilseal and packing washer from the inside.
Provided the bellhousing has separated from the engine (if not, some persuasion may be required),
the gearbox should slide relatively easily from the flywheel. If it does not, check the separation between the bellhousing and the engine -
it should be the same at the bottom as the top and, if not, indicates excessive force is being placed on the gearbox shaft -
adjust the jack under the gearbox to reduce the force and make removal easier.
When re-assembling the coupling halves, use red Hermetite to seal the contact faces on the outside diameter.
Note also, the lip of the seal should face inwards.
For additional information click here for advice from Tom Riddell (Thanks Tom)
When idling, the fluid coupling will 'whine' when it is at the full slip condition.
The two things that are characteristic of the standard fluid flywheel whine are that:
1) it is always there, when the car is stationary at idle and
2) it subsides as the vehicle speeds up and the coupling slip is reduced.
Note that the driving member is flange-bolted to the flywheel with a thin gasket between.
If replacing the copper filler plug sealing washers, sump plug sealing washers of 5/8" ID, 1" OD are commonly available.
All images are scanned from originals, wherever possible, at 100dpi (unless otherwise noted) and must be scaled when printed to preserve the original size (eg. scale up by 3 times for a 300dpi printer).
Note, however, that due to slight scaling inaccuracies during both the scanning and inevitably the printing, these images should be taken as an approximation for reference only.
In addition, drawings, measurements and notes of materials used are intended as a guide and aid to the restorer, and not necessarily a definitive, or even guaranteed correct, reference.
| Runner center piece assembly for the fluid flywheel. | ||
|
||
| |
||
 Oilseal for the fluid flywheel. The steel and rubber oil seal used on the flywheel probably measured 1.3/16" x 2" x 3/8" (ID x OD x width), but the modern metric measurements of 30mm x 52mm x 9mm are a closer match. Note that modern metric oilseals are 10mm width (which still fits correctly).
Gaco part #SMIM305210 or Aeroquip part #SU600149C may be suitable replacements. Bearingboys part #OS30x52x10 (R21 - metric) is a suitable replacement, or part #W200125037 (R21 - imperial) may be appropriate. |
||
Fluid flywheel rear case bearing.
|
None yet.