Remove radiator cap.
Drain water from system using the drain tap on the lower nearside of the engine block.
Slacken the upper jubilee clip on the top radiator hose.
Remove the "intermediate" bottom hose which connect the block lower water outlet with the combined metal lower pipe/heater connection.
Remove both heater hoses at the engine end and drain heater. Tie hoses out of the way.
Remove the two front radiator stay bolts and lay stays away from the radiator.
Remove the three set bolts which secure the upper grille assembly apron to the radiator.
Slacken the four bolts (two either side), at the top of the radiator, which secure the radiator to its location channels. These are very difficult and will only slacken one flat at a time. A very slim spanner will greatly assist this task.
Remove the two nuts and washers which secure the bottom of the radiator to the front sub – frame. Detach the lighting loom which is secures by tabs on to these bolts.
Slide the radiator out vertically. It may require a little jiggling if it has not been removed for some time.
As you now have access to the rear of the radiator grille, now is the time to fit/remove/adjust any radiator grille mounted badges.
Remove the fan belt by slackening of the dynamo adjustment and mounting bolts (the mounting bolts are easier slackened from underneath the car) and swing the dynamo as far towards the block as it will go. Remove belt.
Remove the air cleaner by slackening off the jubilee clip which secures it to the carburettor intake and by removing the two set bolts which secure the breather pipe to the rocker cover.
Disconnect the auto – advance pipe from the carburettor.
Disconnect the fuel pipe from the carburettor.
Disconnect the throttle linkage from the carburettor.
Disconnect the choke operating cable from the carburettor.
Remove the carburettor by slackening the two nuts which attach it to the manifold.
Remove the heat shield.
Remove the manifolds by slackening the nine brass nuts which attach it to the head. Release the temperature sender wire tabs. The rear nut is the most awkward and a ratchet type ring spanner is most useful for this nut. All the other nuts will come off with a normal socket and small extension bar.
Remove the temperature sender from the thermostat assembly and tie sender wire clear of the head.
Tie manifolds clear of their studs away from the head.
Detach the auto advance pipe from the distributor and remove pipe altogether.
Detach fuel pipe from the carburettor side of the pumps and remove pipe altogether.
Disconnect all high tension leads from the sparking plugs and the centre of the coil.
Remove distributor cap.
Remove the distributor by taking out the two set bolts which secure it to the block. IMPORTANT. Do not allow the distributor shaft to revolve whilst removing and also when removed.
Remove the small oil pipe which runs form the block to the head at the head end.
Remove the tappet chest cover by unscrewing the three set bolts.
Remove the rocker cover by taking out the two knurled bolts which secure it to the head. A LIGHT tap with a leather mallet will break the gasket seal
Flatten all the tab washers on the rocker shaft attachment bolts then unscrew the bolts one at a time, one turn at a time until all tension from the valve springs is taken off the shaft. Remove all bolts in any order once the tension is released.
Lift each rocker clear of tits respective push rod cup and remove shaft. NOTE whatever you do now, DON’T turn the engine over!
Remove the eight push rods by exerting some side pressure on them to break the cohesive oil seal and "flick" them out of their respective cam follower cup.
Remove the cylinder head by slackening the nuts a turn at a time, in the order specified on the diagram (Figure ??) until they are all loose. This will ensure there is no warping of the head due to undue pressure from the nuts. They can then all be removed in any order.
Break the seal on the head gasket by giving it a few smart taps either side with the leather mallet. If this will not do the job, insert a screwdriver in the FRONT of the engine between the head and the block and gently lever upwards whilst giving the sides of the head smart taps with the leather mallet.
Wiggle the head around to completely break the seal and remove. Try to lift it as vertically as possible to avoid damaging the threads on the attachment studs.
Remove the manifold gasket.
Thoroughly and surgically clean the facings of the cylinder head and that of the manifold attachment at the side of the head. A "Stanley" blade is very useful, but make sure it is kept level whilst scraping so as not to scratch the head.
Insert rags in to the cylinders, to prevent ingress of dirt, and repeat the cleaning process for the block facings.
Finally, wipe all mating surfaces with a proprietary cleaner such as "Hyperclean" and then dry with a clean lint free cloth.
To remove/replace/regrind the valves, see the section in this manual "Removing, replacing and regrinding the valves"
Remove the rags from the cylinder bores and drop the new gasket over the studs. It will only go on one way on later engines (Chassis 62000 onwards)
as these have a waterway at the front of the block, near the water pump housing. Earlier engine gaskets should be marked "top" on one side to ensure correct fitting.
Gently drop the head over the studs until it seats on to the gasket.
Screw on all head nuts finger tight and then tighten them one turn at a time, again using the diagram in figure ?? to ensure they are tightened in the right order.
Finally tighten all nuts in order on the diagram to a force of 36 -41 pounds feet (51 – 56 Newton Metres) with a torque spanner.
Replace the manifold gasket on its studs.
Replace the push rods, ensuring they sit correctly in the cam follower cups.
Replace the rocker shaft over its studs, ensuring the rocker balls sit correctly in the push rod cups.
Tighten the nuts down evenly until the bases of the rocker shaft attachment pillars are flush with the head.
Adjust the tappets to 13 thou, in accordance with the section in this manual "Adjusting the Tappets"
Replace the tappet chest cover. If you do not have a new gasket for this, ensure both mating surfaces are surgically clean and apply a generous coating of Blue Hylomar or similar to both faces prior to locating the cover in place. Hold it securely in position whilst inserting and tightening the three attachment bolts.
The remainder of the process is the reverse of dismantling.
Replace the distributor, ensuring to dogs on the shaft engage with the slot in the drive inside the engine.
Replace the oil pipe from the block to the head.
Replace distributor cap and leads
Locate manifold on to studs
Locate temperature sender wire tidy tabs on to their respective studs.
Re - attach temperature sender on the thermostat housing.
Tighten manifold nuts.
Replace rocker cover, using the new gasket in the head set, ensuring both mating surfaces are clean.
Replace carburettor and reconnect fuel pipe (at both ends), auto advance pipe (at both ends), choke and throttle linkages
Replace fan belt and tighten to the correct tension (see section "the Dynamo") ensuring both mounting and adjusting nuts are tight.
Replace radiator by sliding it down its channels and ensuring the top inlet locates inside the top hose.
Replace/tighten all hoses, replace bottom mounting nuts and loom tidy tabs.
Re locate and tighten engine stays.
Re locate and tighten the three radiator apron bolts.
Tighten the four radiator securing nuts (two either side)
Close engine drain plug and refill with water/antifreeze mixture and visually check for leaks.
Replace radiator cap and run engine up to temperature, again checking for leaks. Tighten hose connections again when hot.